E-6 reversal film process with 3-bath kits
(I) The E-6 kits that you can purchase.
(II) Preparation of working solutions.
(III)
Solution storage. (IV) Productivity.
(V)
General processing hints.
(VI)
Steps and conditions at 38º C. (VII) Reuse of
working solutions.
(VIII) Push or pull processing.
(IX) Correcting the
color balance.
(X) Comparison table between
the 6-bath process and the 3-bath.
(XI) Consulted documents.
(I) The E-6 kits that you can purchase.
Years ago, you could choose between two E-6 kits: the 6 baths and the 3.
But now you can no longer choose. In the market, you can only purchase
the 3-bath kit plus stabilizer. This kit of 3 baths was designed for
processing of all standard E-6 reversal films in tanks and rotary
processors: for home development. In the market, you can purchased the
following kits for film processing:
Tetenal
Colortec E-6 3-Bath (1 Liter, 5 liters), Germany
Fuji Hunt
3E6 (5 liters), Japan
Arista
Rapid E-6 (1 Quart, 1 Gallon), USA
Ornano Kit
Dia 3, Italy (two years ago this kit was discontinued)
(II) Preparation of
working
solutions.
Contamination of first developer by the color developer, bleach-fix and
stabilizer must be avoided. Any contamination of the first developer
with even the slightest traces of the colour developer (including vapour)
results in lower final densities (maximum density). Make sure to rinse out mixing and measuring vessels completely
between each chemical. All vessels should be cleaned thoroughly in
running warm water after each use so no chemistry residues remain. After adding each component, make sure the
solution is thoroughly mixed, before adding the other components. Store all solutions in tightly closed
bottles. Do not
use the working solutions until after an hour of mixing. Tetenal Colortec E-6 3-Bath
of 5 Liters
Component |
Water |
Add |
To make |
1st Developer |
800 ml at
30-38º C |
200 ml
(First Developer FD) |
1
liter |
2nd Developer |
600 ml |
200 ml (Color Developer
CD Part 1)
+ 120 ml (Color Developer
CD Part 2) |
1
liter |
Bleach-Fix |
600 ml at
30-38º C |
200 ml (Bleach-Fix
BX Part 1)
+ 200 ml (Bleach-Fix
BX Part 2) |
1
liter |
Stabilizer |
900 ml at
15-40ºC |
100 ml
Stabilizer STAB |
1
liter |
Fuji Hunt 3E6
of 5 Liters
Component |
Water |
Add |
To make |
1st Developer |
800 ml at 30-40º C |
200 ml (3E6 First Developer) |
1 liter |
2nd Developer |
600 ml at 30-40º C |
200 ml (3E6 Color Developer Part A)
+ 200 ml (3E6 Color Developer Part B) |
1 liter |
Bleach-Fix |
600 ml at 30-40º C |
200 ml (3E6 Bleach-Fix Part A)
+ 200 ml (3E6 Bleach-Fix Part B) |
1 liter |
Stabilizer |
900 ml at 30-40ºC |
50 ml 3E6
Stabiliser |
1 liter |
(III) Solution storage.
In a completely filled
and closed glass or PVC (plastic) container, the working solutions will keep on average
of the following:
First developer: 2
weeks. Second developer: 6 weeks. Bleach-fix:
3 months. Stabilizer: 3 months.
(IV) Productivity.
With 1 liter of working solution (mixture of water + chemical), you can
process 6 Super 8 cartridges. You can process 2 more Super 8 cartridges,
but you will get optimal results. From 6 cartridges, you can use the
working solutions for your experiments, because colors are not clean.
(V)
General processing hints.
(a) The temperature and the processing time are critical factors. They should be
very closely monitored. Any drift will have an impact on the final
result. Be sure to keep a constant temperature during each step of
processing.
(b) You can develop the film
at other temperatures between 20 and 44º C. You can consult the following tables to set the times to temperature:
table of first developer,
table of second developer.
(c) Agitation is also an important factor for the final result. In the case of manual
processing try to be consistent. If the agitation is excessive, you can increase grain of film. For similar
results, you should always agitate the same way. You have to move the
spiral in the sense of clockwise. Agitation for all steps:
continuous the first 15" and during 5" every 30" (or 10" every 60").
-
First
minute................first 15 seconds
-
Second
minute...........first 10 seconds
-
Third
minute...............first 10 seconds
-
Fourth
minute.............first 10 seconds
-
Fifth minute................first 10 seconds
-
Etc.
(d) Maintain
total darkness during first developer and first rinse. The next
processing steps can be done
outside the developing tank.
(e) Processing solutions and wash water may contain some insoluble
materials. If these materials aren’t filtered out, they can stick to the
film or to tank walls, and possibly damage the film. You must filter out
chemicals and must keep the tank clean.
(VI)
Steps and conditions at 38º C.
Step |
Time |
Temperature |
(1) Preheating |
5' |
38º C |
(2) 1st Developer (B&W
Developer) |
6'30" |
38º C ±0.5º C |
(3) Rinse |
2 x 60" |
33-39º C |
(4) 2nd Developer (Color
Developer + Reversal Agent) |
7' |
38º C ±0.5º C |
(5) Rinse |
2 x 60" |
33-39º C |
(6) Blix (Bleach
+ Fix) |
6-12' |
33-39º C |
(7) Final Wash |
4 x 60" |
33-39º C |
(8) Stabilizer |
1' |
20 to 25º C |
(9) Dry |
As needed |
|
(1)
You can pre-soak the film during 5 minutes at a temperature 38º C. You must
pour the water into the tank to the working temperature. This pre-bath keeps
the temperature tank more stable during the following bath.
(2) The first developer is the
most critical phase of the process. Consistent results are only achieved if
temperature, time, and agitation are followed. Lengthening the first
development time leads to lighter films. Shorting the time will produce
denser films. First development time also depends on the film being processed.
Fuji films should be processed 16% longer in the first developer then Agfa or
Kodak films.
(3) Rinses may be safely done for
longer times than instructions indicate.
(4) After 1 film,
Color Developer time must increase 1'.
(5) Rinses may be safely done for
longer times than instructions indicate.
(6) After 1 film, Bleach-Fix time
must increase 1'.
(7)
Use running water or change water every 60 seconds. Agitate continuously.
(8) Stabilizing bath does not need
agitation. Avoid any contamination of the tank and spiral with Stabiliser.
After using the stabilizer, clean thoroughly the spiral and the tank.
Remaining stabilizer bath residues would have a negative impact on the first
developer during the next process run.
(9) To dry
the film, hang it or leave it in the tank in a dust free atmosphere and do not exceed a drying
temperature of 60°C. You can also use a drying rack. Keep the film-drying
area clean and free of dust. If the film is over-dried and has excessive curl,
the ambient conditions may be too dry; the temperature may be reduced or the
relative humidity may be increased.
(VII) Reuse of
working solutions.
This table shows the time changes needed when working solutions are reused
at 38º C. See the tables for variable temperature for the increments of time
when you develop at other temperatures:
table of first developer,
table of
second developer. Note times change after every
one Super 8 cartridge.
Solution |
First process |
Second process |
Third process |
1st Developer |
6'30" at 38º C |
+ 15" |
+ 15" |
2nd Developer |
7' at 38º C |
+ 1' |
+ 2" |
Bleach-Fix |
12' at 38º C |
+ 1' |
+ 2" |
(VIII) Push or pull processing.
Under-exposed or over-exposed film can be corrected by modifying the first developer time.
30º/800 |
3 stop underexposed |
14'30" |
+8' |
push |
27º/400 |
2 stop underexposed |
11'30" at 38º C |
+5' |
24º/200 |
1 stop underexposed |
8'30" at 38º C |
+2' |
21º/100 |
Standard |
6'30" at 38º C |
|
|
18º/50 |
1 stop
overexposed |
4'30" at 38º C |
-2' |
pull |
15º/25 |
2 stop
overexposed |
1'30" at 38º C |
-5' |
(IX) Correcting the
color balance.
There are
circumstances in which the colour balance of some makes of films can
vary. The colour balance can be affected by a change in the pH value of
the colour developer. It is possible to adjust this by adding a certain amount of
diluted sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH, increase in pH value) or sulphuric acid solution
(H2SO4, reduction of pH value). See the
table below for recommended conditions.
Film manufacturer |
Current
Color Balance,
deviation is looking like: |
Addition of Acid/
Hydroxide Solution/
Litre Color Developer |
Resulting Colour Balance is
changing towards : |
Fuji |
Red
Cyan |
2.0 ml Hydroxide
solution
2.0 ml Acid
solution |
Cyan, 0.05 density or 05
CC values
Red, 0.05 density or 05
CC values |
Agfa |
Red
Cyan |
2.0 ml Hydroxide
solution
3.0 ml Acid
solution |
Cyan, 0.05 density or 05
CC values
Red, 0.05 density or 05
CC values |
Kodak |
Blue
Yelow |
1.0 ml Hydroxide
solution
1.0 ml Acid
solution |
Yelow, 0.05 density or 05
CC values
Blue, 0.05 density or 05
CC values |
Preparation of
Sodium Hydroxide (5N NaOH)
1. Water..........................................................500 ml (cold!)
2. Sodium Hydroxide (tablets)...........................200 gr
3. Water to make............................................1000 ml
Fill a two litre beaker with 500 ml cold(!) water. While stirring, slowly add
the 200 gr sodium hydroxide tablets. Guard against boiling and splattering. Cool
this solution to room temperature. Dilute with water to 1 liter. Stir to mix.
Always take water first, then add the hydroxide slowly.
Preparation of
Sulphuric Scid (5N
H2SO4)
1. Water.....................................................800 ml (cold!)
2. Sulphuric Acid (98 %)............................140 ml
3. Water to make........................................1000 ml
Fill a two litre beaker with 800 ml cold (!) water. While stirring, slowly add
the 140 ml of sulphuric acid. Guard against boiling and splattering. Cool
this solution to room temperature. Dilute with water to 1 liter. Stir to mix.
Always take water first, then add the acid slowly.
(X) Comparison table between
the 6-bath process and the 3-bath.
6 Baths |
Chemical Process |
3 Baths |
3 Baths |
3 Baths |
Kodak |
Chemistry manufacturer |
Tetenal |
Fuji |
Arista |
38ºC |
Temperature |
38ºC |
38ºC |
105ºF (40.5ºC) |
6' 30" |
(1)
First Developer
(Black-and-White
Developer) |
6' 30" |
6' 30" |
6' 30" |
3' |
(2) Rinse |
4' |
2' 30" |
Quickly
fill and empty tank seven times. |
2' |
(3) Reversal Bath |
- |
- |
- |
4' |
(4) Color Developer |
- |
- |
- |
- |
(5) Second Developer
(Reversal Bah + Color Developer) |
6' |
6' |
4' 30" |
- |
(6) Rinse |
2' 30" |
2' 30" |
Quickly
fill and empty tank seven times. |
2' |
(7) Conditioner |
- |
- |
- |
6' |
(8) Bleach |
- |
- |
- |
4' |
(9) Fix |
- |
- |
- |
- |
(10) Blix
(Bleach + Fix) |
10' |
6' |
10' |
4' |
(11) Rinse |
4' |
4' |
5' |
1' |
(12) Stabilizer |
1' |
1' |
- |
(1) In the first developer, the exposed silver-halide crystals contained in
the red, green and blue-sensitive layers of the film are reduced to metallic
silver (negative image). The first developer is the most critical phase of
the entire process. Even minute deviations from standard requirements cause
clearly visible alterations of the final results.
(2) The rinse between first developer and reversal bath stops the chemical
action of the first developer. It also prevents carryover of the first
developer into the reversal bath. Meticulous compliance with the specified
rinse times and rinse temperatures is important.
(3) The reversal bath contains a chemical agent serving as substitute for an
intermediate light re-exposure. It facilitates developing of all silver-halide
crystals that have remained unexposed when the picture was taken. No rinse
should take place after the reversal bath. The reversal substance that has
been carried over is needed for reversal during the color developer.
(4) The silver salts remaining in the film after the first developer are
reduced to metallic silver by the color developer. At the same time, through
accumulation of the color couplers in the film layers, the final pigments of
the slide develop. Here, the complementary colors cyan, magenta and yellow are formed in the layer with
the corresponding red, green and blue sensitivity.
(5) In the 3-bath process, the reversal agent and the color developer are
mixed in a single bath.
(6) In the 3-bath process, this rinse stops the action of the second
developer.
(7) In the conditioner bath the developed metallic silver is prepared for
oxidation in the bleach bath. No rinse must take place between the
conditioner bath and the subsequent bleach bath since the conditioner bath
that has been carried over is needed for proper bleaching.
(8) In the bleach bath, the metallic silver formed in the first and color
developers is transformed again to silver halide. Consequently, it can be
completely removed from the film layers in the fixing bath.
(9) In the fixing bath the silver halides remaining in the film emulsion are
converted into soluble silver compounds.
(10) In the 3-bath process, the bleaching and the fixer are mixed in a
single bath.
(11) The final rinse removes all developing substances that have remained in
the emulsion.
(12) The stabilizer bath improves the durability of the color pigments and,
in addition, contains a wetting agent to safeguard faster and better drying.
(XI) Consulted documents.
-
Arista Rapid
E-6:
E-6 Processing Instructions for Pint, Quart and Gallon Kits,
December 2000, USA (consulted in November 2011).
-
Fuji Photo
Film:
Technical Info Sheet, Fuji Hunt 3E6 Processing Kit,
Febraury 2007, Japan (consulted in November 2011).
-
Fuji Photo
Film:
Technical Info Sheet, Replacements for E6 Processing Kits 3E6
(3-bath) and Chrome 6X, May 2009, Japan (consulted in November
2011).
-
Jobo Fototechnic:
Jobo E-6 Handbook,
Germany (consulted in November 2011).
-
Richert,
David:
Instructions for Tetenal E6 Three Bath Plus
500ml and 1 liter Kits, Avondale, Arizona, USA (consulted in November 2011).
-
Tetenal AG & CO:
Tetenal Colortec E-6 3-Bath, Instruction for use,
Germany (consulted in November 2011).
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